15 · Power Tools

Rebar Cutter

Also called Electric rebar cutter · Bar cutter · Hydraulic rebar cutter

Shears reinforcing steel cleanly to length — faster and safer than bolt cutters or grinding.

Electric (corded)
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Overview

A rebar cutter shears reinforcing steel straight through with a hydraulic blade. Against bolt cutters it is quicker and takes no effort; against a grinder it makes no sparks and leaves no hot end.

Cutting rebar to length on site, trimming dowels and starter bars, and cutting in fire-sensitive areas where sparks are not allowed at all.

Check the bar diameter is within the cutter's rated capacity before starting. Forcing an oversized bar rolls the blade edges over, and after that nothing cuts cleanly.

If it stops short of cutting through, it is either an oversized bar or blades that need turning or replacing.

Catalogue specifications

Weight: 67 lb

  • Unit Specifications
  • Rated Power 12.4 A
  • Max. Cutting Speed 3.5 sec
  • Electric Motor 115 volt, 60 Hz, single-phase AC
  • Cutting Capacity Grade 40
  • Max. Bar Size No. 8
  • Max. Bar Diameter 1 in 250 mm
  • Cutting Capacity Grade 50
  • Cutting Capacity Grade 60
  • Dimensions & Weights
  • Overall Length 18.9 in 480 mm
  • Overall Width 5.4 in 137 mm
  • Overall Height 10.6 in 269 mm
  • Operating Weight 48.5 lb 22 kg

Best uses

  • Cutting rebar to length on site
  • Trimming dowels and starter bars
  • Cutting without sparks (fire-sensitive areas)

Troubleshooting

Doesn't cut all the way through

Checks to try, in order

  1. Check the bar size is within capacity.
  2. Worn blades need turning or replacing.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Link to this fixDid this solve the problem?
Blade doesn't return after the cut

Checks to try, in order

  1. Release the trigger fully and wait for the piston to retract.

Loss of hydraulic pressure is a workshop job.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Link to this fixDid this solve the problem?
Tool won't switch onShared · Electric (corded)

Likely causes

  • Tripped GFCI or breaker
  • Lock-off button
  • Damaged cord
  • Dead outlet

Checks to try, in order

  1. Check the outlet works and reset any GFCI / RCD that has tripped.
  2. Release the lock-off button or safety switch before squeezing the trigger.
  3. Inspect the cord and extension lead for cuts, crushed sections or damaged plugs.
  4. If running from a generator, make sure it's running and its breaker hasn't tripped.

A damaged cord or plug means the tool is out of service. Tag it and return it — never tape a cord.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Link to this fixDid this solve the problem?
Keeps tripping the breakerShared · Electric (corded)

Likely causes

  • Circuit overloaded
  • Undersized extension cord
  • Blunt accessory

Checks to try, in order

  1. Plug into a circuit with nothing else heavy running on it.
  2. Use a shorter, heavier extension cord. Long, thin cords starve the motor and trip breakers.
  3. Don't force the tool — a dull bit, blade or disc makes the motor draw more current.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Link to this fixDid this solve the problem?
Overheating, burning smell or heavy sparkingShared · Electric (corded)

Checks to try, in order

  1. Stop and unplug the tool.
  2. Check the motor vents aren't blocked with dust.
  3. Let it cool, fit a sharp accessory and let the tool's weight do the work.

Heavy sparking from the vents or a burning smell that returns points to worn brushes or a failing motor — workshop only.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Link to this fixDid this solve the problem?

Safety

  • Cut pieces can fly — support the bar and wear eye protection.

For electric (corded)

  • Inspect the cord and plug before every use. Use a GFCI/RCD outdoors or near water.
  • Unplug before changing blades, bits, discs or pads.
  • Wear eye protection, and a dust mask when cutting, grinding or sanding masonry.

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