Troubleshooting

Find the fix

Search a symptom, select a category and work through the checks in order.

Stop using the machine if it is smoking, leaking fuel or hydraulic oil, or making an unusual noise. Contact the workshop.

won't start no water low pressure won't lift overheating tripping leak won't move stalls

254 matching procedures

Machine-specific fixes

239 results

Engine runs but the plate won't vibrateVibratory Plate Compactor · Compaction EquipmentFirst check: Move the throttle to full. At idle the clutch disengages and the plate stops vibrating — that's normal.

Plate bounces or hops instead of moving forwardVibratory Plate Compactor · Compaction EquipmentFirst check: The material may already be fully compacted — stop working that spot.

Hard to steer or drifts to one sideLarge Plate Compactor · Compaction EquipmentFirst check: Plates track straight on level, even material. Drift usually means the surface is uneven or sloped.

Won't change direction or reverse is weakReversible Plate Compactor · Compaction EquipmentFirst check: Push the direction control through its full travel.

Engine cuts out on uneven groundLarge Reversible Compactor · Compaction EquipmentFirst check: The GX390 has a low-oil shutdown. Check the oil with the machine sitting level.

Leaking fuel or oil after transport, or hard to startJumping Jack Rammer (Ele & Kanga) · Compaction EquipmentFirst check: Rammers must travel upright. Laid on its side, the engine floods and leaks fuel and oil.

Jumps erratically or won't travel forwardJumping Jack Rammer (Ele & Kanga) · Compaction EquipmentFirst check: Run at full throttle — at part throttle the stroke is uneven.

Vibration won't engageRoller Compactor · Compaction EquipmentFirst check: Make sure the engine is at full working speed. Vibration is usually locked out at idle.

Asphalt is sticking to the drumsRoller Compactor · Compaction EquipmentFirst check: Check the water tank level.

Frame wobbles, leans or is out of plumbScaffolding · Scaffolding & PropsFirst check: Check all four castors are locked and sitting flat on the floor.

Brace or coupling pin won't lockScaffolding · Scaffolding & PropsFirst check: Check the frames are square and aligned. Don't hammer braces into place.

Collar won't turnAdjustable Steel Props · Scaffolding & PropsFirst check: Clean dried concrete off the thread with a wire brush.

Prop is settling or sinkingAdjustable Steel Props · Scaffolding & PropsFirst check: Place a timber sole plate or pad under the base plate on soft ground.

Scaffold rolls or won't stay lockedBaker Scaffold · Scaffolding & PropsFirst check: Engage both the wheel lock and the swivel lock on each caster.

Platform won't sit flatBaker Scaffold · Scaffolding & PropsFirst check: Make sure the deck hooks are fully over the rungs.

Drum turns slowly or stallsConcrete Mixer · Concrete EquipmentFirst check: The drum is probably overloaded. Tip out some material and mix a smaller batch.

Drum won't tip or won't lock in positionConcrete Mixer · Concrete EquipmentFirst check: Release the tilt lock fully before turning the tilt wheel or handle.

Machine pulls to one side or is hard to controlPower Trowel · Concrete EquipmentFirst check: The concrete may still be too wet. Wait and test again.

Leaves swirl marks, burns or gougesPower Trowel · Concrete EquipmentFirst check: Too much pitch too early — flatten the blades.

Motor runs but the head doesn't vibrateConcrete Vibrator · Concrete EquipmentFirst check: Check the flexible shaft is fully connected to the motor.

Head is getting very hotConcrete Vibrator · Concrete EquipmentFirst check: Only run the head while it's in concrete. Running it in open air overheats it.

Surface turns soupy or wet after tampingJitterbug Tamper · Concrete EquipmentFirst check: The mix is too wet for tamping. Stop tamping and move on to floating.

Float digs into the slabBull Float · Concrete EquipmentFirst check: Adjust the handle angle so the leading edge is lifted.

Handle sections come looseBull Float · Concrete EquipmentFirst check: Check every handle section is fully clicked or twisted together before use.

Load slides off the dollyFurniture Dolly · Lifting EquipmentFirst check: Centre the load over the dolly.

A wheel won't roll or swivelFurniture Dolly · Lifting EquipmentFirst check: Clear hair, string or debris wrapped around the axle.

Mast won't raiseMaterial Lift · Lifting EquipmentFirst check: Check the winch cable is wound neatly on the drum and not jumped off the pulleys.

Lift feels unstableMaterial Lift · Lifting EquipmentFirst check: Extend the legs or outriggers fully and pin them.

Pumping but the boom won't riseFolding Crane · Lifting EquipmentFirst check: Close the release valve fully (usually clockwise).

Load slowly creeps downFolding Crane · Lifting EquipmentFirst check: Lower the load to the ground immediately.

Forks won't lift when pumpingPallet Jack · Lifting EquipmentFirst check: Set the handle lever to the LIFT position (not neutral or lower).

Forks lower by themselvesPallet Jack · Lifting EquipmentFirst check: Release valve may need adjusting, or seals are worn.

Hard to pull or steerPallet Jack · Lifting EquipmentFirst check: Check the wheels for wrapped plastic film, strapping or debris.

Low or pulsing pressurePressure Washer · Pressure WashersFirst check: Turn the water tap fully on and check the supply hose isn't kinked.

Starter rope is very hard to pullPressure Washer · Pressure WashersFirst check: Squeeze the gun trigger to release trapped pressure, then pull the starter.

Water dribbles from the pump when idlingPressure Washer · Pressure WashersFirst check: The pump is overheating from idling with the trigger released. Spray for a moment to cool it.

Surface cleaner leaves stripes or swirl marksPressure Washer Attachments · Pressure WashersFirst check: Slow down and overlap your passes.

Spray bar won't spinPressure Washer Attachments · Pressure WashersFirst check: Check for a clogged nozzle.

Wand or cleaner won't click onPressure Washer Attachments · Pressure WashersFirst check: Pull the quick-connect collar fully back, push the fitting in, then release the collar.

Engine runs but no water comes outTrash Pump · PumpsFirst check: Stop the engine and fill the casing with water through the priming port.

Show more (199 left)

Standard checks

Apply to every machine with that power source.

Petrol engine

Engine won't startShared · Petrol engine

Likely causes

Fuel valve or switch off
Stale fuel
Low oil sensor
Choke position
Spark plug cap loose

Checks to try, in order

Turn the fuel valve ON and the engine switch to ON.
Cold engine: close the choke. Warm engine: leave the choke open.
Check there is fresh petrol in the tank — stale or water-contaminated fuel is the most common cause.
Check the engine oil. Many engines have a low-oil shutdown that stops them starting when oil is low or the machine is on a slope — top up and set the machine on level ground.
Make sure the spark plug cap is pushed fully onto the plug.
Pull the starter rope with a smooth, firm pull — don't let it snap back.

If the starter rope is locked or unusually hard to pull, stop — don't force it. Tag the unit and return it to the workshop.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Starts, then stalls or runs roughShared · Petrol engine

Likely causes

Choke left on
Blocked air filter
Low fuel
Low-oil shutdown

Checks to try, in order

Open the choke gradually once the engine has warmed up.
Check the fuel level and that the fuel cap vent isn't blocked.
Check the air filter — a dusty filter chokes the engine. Tap it out or swap it.
Check the oil level again; the low-oil sensor can cut the engine on uneven ground.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Smell of fuel or a visible leakShared · Petrol engine

Checks to try, in order

Switch the engine off immediately and move away any ignition sources.
Turn the fuel valve OFF.
Check the fuel cap is seated and look for a wet fuel line or carburettor bowl.

Don't run a machine that is leaking fuel. Tag it out and report it.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Applies to Vibratory Plate Compactor, Large Plate Compactor, Reversible Plate Compactor, Large Reversible Compactor, Jumping Jack Rammer (Ele & Kanga), Concrete Mixer, Power Trowel, Pressure Washer, Trash Pump, Portable Generator, Inverter Generator, Lawn Mower, Floor Grinder, Block Saw, Pavement Saw, Trencher, Stump Grinder, Garden Tiller, Brush Cutter.

2-stroke petrol

Engine won't startShared · 2-stroke petrol

Likely causes

Wrong fuel mix
Flooded engine
Stop switch
Fouled spark plug

Checks to try, in order

Confirm the fuel is 2-stroke mix (petrol with 2-stroke oil at the ratio on the tool's label). Straight petrol will seize the engine.
Set the stop switch to RUN.
Press the primer bulb until fuel is visible, then set the choke for a cold start.
After the first 'pop', move the choke to half/off and pull again.
If it's flooded (strong fuel smell): choke off, throttle fully open, pull several times to clear it.

If there's no compression or the rope won't pull, return it to the workshop — don't keep pulling.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Lacks power, bogs down or smokes heavilyShared · 2-stroke petrol

Likely causes

Dirty air filter
Incorrect fuel mix
Blocked spark arrestor screen

Checks to try, in order

Check the air filter and clean it if dusty.
Too much oil in the mix causes heavy smoke — drain and refill with correctly mixed fuel.
Let the tool do the cutting — forcing it bogs the engine down.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Applies to String Trimmer, Pole Pruner, Hedge Trimmer, Post Hole Digger, Chainsaw, Backpack Blower.

Diesel machine

Nothing happens when the key is turnedShared · Diesel machine

Likely causes

Isolator off
Seat / seat-belt / lap-bar interlock
Controls not in neutral
Flat battery

Checks to try, in order

Check the battery isolator / master switch is ON.
Sit in the seat, fasten the seat belt and lower the safety bar — interlocks prevent starting otherwise.
Put the controls in neutral and the hydraulic lockout lever in the locked position.
Check the battery terminals are tight and free of corrosion.

If the battery is flat, don't jump-start it unless you've been trained to — call the workshop.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Cranks but won't startShared · Diesel machine

Likely causes

Out of fuel / air in fuel
Glow plugs not preheated
E-stop engaged

Checks to try, in order

Check the fuel gauge. Diesel engines that run dry often need the fuel system bled before they'll start.
Turn the key to the preheat position and wait for the glow-plug light to go out before cranking.
Check the emergency stop button isn't pressed in.
Crank for no more than 10–15 seconds at a time, then let the starter rest.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Arms, boom or tracks won't move or are slowShared · Diesel machine

Likely causes

Lockout lever engaged
Cold oil
Low hydraulic oil
Leak

Checks to try, in order

Raise the hydraulic lockout / safety lever or disengage the control lock.
Let the machine warm up for a few minutes before working it hard.
Check the hydraulic oil sight glass with the machine level and attachments lowered.
Look for hydraulic oil leaks under the machine and at hose ends.

Never touch a pinhole hydraulic leak — high-pressure oil can inject through skin. Stop and report it.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Warning light, alarm or overheatingShared · Diesel machine

Checks to try, in order

Stop work, lower attachments to the ground and let the engine idle — don't shut a hot engine off abruptly unless told to by the alarm.
Check whether the radiator / cooler screen is blocked with dust, grass or debris.
Only check coolant once the engine is cold. Never open a hot radiator cap.

Red warning lights mean stop. Note the code or symbol and call the workshop before continuing.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Applies to Roller Compactor, Excavator, Telescopic Handler, Skid Steer Loader, Compact Track Loader, Welder, Backhoe Loader.

Electric (corded)

Tool won't switch onShared · Electric (corded)

Likely causes

Tripped GFCI or breaker
Lock-off button
Damaged cord
Dead outlet

Checks to try, in order

Check the outlet works and reset any GFCI / RCD that has tripped.
Release the lock-off button or safety switch before squeezing the trigger.
Inspect the cord and extension lead for cuts, crushed sections or damaged plugs.
If running from a generator, make sure it's running and its breaker hasn't tripped.

A damaged cord or plug means the tool is out of service. Tag it and return it — never tape a cord.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Keeps tripping the breakerShared · Electric (corded)

Likely causes

Circuit overloaded
Undersized extension cord
Blunt accessory

Checks to try, in order

Plug into a circuit with nothing else heavy running on it.
Use a shorter, heavier extension cord. Long, thin cords starve the motor and trip breakers.
Don't force the tool — a dull bit, blade or disc makes the motor draw more current.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Overheating, burning smell or heavy sparkingShared · Electric (corded)

Checks to try, in order

Stop and unplug the tool.
Check the motor vents aren't blocked with dust.
Let it cool, fit a sharp accessory and let the tool's weight do the work.

Heavy sparking from the vents or a burning smell that returns points to worn brushes or a failing motor — workshop only.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Applies to Concrete Vibrator, Submersible Pump, Carpet Vacuum Extractor, Spotter Vacuum Extractor, Wet/Dry Vacuum, HEPA Vortex Vacuum, Floor Polisher, Floor Planer, Floor Washer, Floor Sander, Air Blower, Ozone Generator, Dehumidifier, Angle Grinder, Breaker Jackhammer, Power Planer, Demolition Jackhammer, Rotary Jackhammer, Orbital Sander, Router, Sawzall, Core Drill, Rebar Bender, Rebar Cutter, Miter Saw, Circular Saw, Tile Saw, Floor Edger, Upright Carpet Vacuum, Hybrid Air Dryer, Portable Water Pump, Sump Pump, Drill, Drywall Driver, Jigsaw, Metal Shears, Belt Sander, Table Saw, Chop Saw.

Battery / electric

No power or cuts out quicklyShared · Battery / electric

Likely causes

Battery not charged
Emergency stop pressed
Disconnect switch off

Checks to try, in order

Charge fully before use and check the charge indicator.
Check any battery disconnect or emergency stop switch.
Make sure the charger was plugged into a live outlet overnight.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Applies to Metal Detector, Cut-Off Saw, Personnel Lift.

Air powered

Weak, slow or won't cycleShared · Air powered

Likely causes

Pressure too low
Leaking coupler
Undersized hose
Water in the line
Dry tool

Checks to try, in order

Set the compressor's regulator to the pressure printed on the tool.
Check couplers are fully seated and listen for leaks along the hose.
Use the right hose size — long, narrow hoses starve heavy tools like breakers.
Drain water from the compressor tank.
Unless the tool is marked oil-free, add a few drops of air-tool oil into the inlet at the start of the day.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Air leaking at a fittingShared · Air powered

Checks to try, in order

Disconnect the air supply before touching the fitting.
Re-seat the quick coupler until it clicks.
Threaded fittings may need new thread-seal tape.

Air leaking from the tool body usually means worn seals — return it to the workshop.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Applies to Nail Gun, Air Jack Hammer, Hopper Spray Gun, Air Scaler.

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