18 · Saws

Chop Saw

Also called Abrasive chop saw · Metal cut-off saw · Metal chop saw

A bench saw with an abrasive wheel that cuts steel bar, angle, tube and rebar square and fast.

Electric (corded)

Overview

A chop saw pivots an abrasive wheel down through metal held in a vice. It cuts steel section, bar, angle, tube and rebar quickly and squarely.

It is a workshop and site fabrication tool: cutting rebar to length, trimming angle for brackets, squaring the ends of tube.

Unlike the cut-off saw, which is petrol and made for concrete and asphalt, this is a bench-mounted electric machine for metal only.

The cut runs hot. Everything near the saw, including the offcut, stays hot long after the cut.

Best uses

  • Cutting rebar to length
  • Steel angle, tube and bar
  • Square ends for fabrication and welding

Not suited for

  • Concrete, block or masonry — that is the cut-off saw
  • Wood, under any circumstances

Troubleshooting

It cuts slowly or the wheel glazes

Checks to try, in order

  1. The wheel has worn down or glazed — fit a fresh one.
  2. Let the saw's own weight do the cutting. Forcing it glazes the wheel.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Link to this fixDid this solve the problem?
The work moves or the wheel binds

Checks to try, in order

  1. Clamp the piece properly in the vice, square to the wheel.
  2. Support long material so it cannot drop and pinch the wheel at the end of the cut.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Link to this fixDid this solve the problem?
Tool won't switch onShared · Electric (corded)

Likely causes

  • Tripped GFCI or breaker
  • Lock-off button
  • Damaged cord
  • Dead outlet

Checks to try, in order

  1. Check the outlet works and reset any GFCI / RCD that has tripped.
  2. Release the lock-off button or safety switch before squeezing the trigger.
  3. Inspect the cord and extension lead for cuts, crushed sections or damaged plugs.
  4. If running from a generator, make sure it's running and its breaker hasn't tripped.

A damaged cord or plug means the tool is out of service. Tag it and return it — never tape a cord.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Link to this fixDid this solve the problem?
Keeps tripping the breakerShared · Electric (corded)

Likely causes

  • Circuit overloaded
  • Undersized extension cord
  • Blunt accessory

Checks to try, in order

  1. Plug into a circuit with nothing else heavy running on it.
  2. Use a shorter, heavier extension cord. Long, thin cords starve the motor and trip breakers.
  3. Don't force the tool — a dull bit, blade or disc makes the motor draw more current.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Link to this fixDid this solve the problem?
Overheating, burning smell or heavy sparkingShared · Electric (corded)

Checks to try, in order

  1. Stop and unplug the tool.
  2. Check the motor vents aren't blocked with dust.
  3. Let it cool, fit a sharp accessory and let the tool's weight do the work.

Heavy sparking from the vents or a burning smell that returns points to worn brushes or a failing motor — workshop only.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Link to this fixDid this solve the problem?

Safety

  • Sparks from this saw travel a long way and start fires. Clear anything flammable before cutting.
  • Full face shield, not just glasses. Abrasive wheels can shatter.
  • Offcuts are hot enough to burn through gloves. Let them cool.

For electric (corded)

  • Inspect the cord and plug before every use. Use a GFCI/RCD outdoors or near water.
  • Unplug before changing blades, bits, discs or pads.
  • Wear eye protection, and a dust mask when cutting, grinding or sanding masonry.

Videos & links

Related equipment

All Saws →

Always follow the manufacturer’s manual and site safety rules. Favourites and viewing history are stored on this device.