10 · Air Tools & Compressors

Air Jack Hammer

Also called Pneumatic hammer · Pneumatic breaker · Paving breaker · Jackhammer

A compressor-driven breaker for pavement, rock and hard ground — pounding the bit about 1,500 times a minute.

Air powered

Sizes & models we rent

Overview

The air jack hammer, also called a pneumatic hammer, runs on compressed air, which fills the piston and drives the hammer's head. The air comes from a separate compressor, connected to the handle of the hammer through a valve.

It takes accessories such as chisels and drills, so it can do different jobs more efficiently.

Its shape, size and weight suit horizontal surfaces, not vertical work.

When you're breaking concrete or rock, a sledgehammer would take all day. A jackhammer works through hard material in a fraction of the time — and it's safer than a sledgehammer.

How it works: the compressor is like a giant bicycle pump that never stops. When the worker presses the handle, air flows from the compressor into the hammer through a valve. Inside is a circuit of air tubes, a heavy piledriver and a drill bit.

High-pressure air first flows one way round the circuit, forcing the piledriver down onto the bit and smashing it into the ground. A valve then flips, reversing the air so the piledriver moves back up. The valve keeps flipping, so the piledriver strikes the bit more than 25 times a second — about 1,500 times a minute.

Best uses

Breaking pavement
Making large holes
Demolishing walls or small structures
Breaking up hardened soils
Drilling rock
Opening channels for pipes and wiring
Removing ceramic coatings

Not suited for

Vertical or overhead work — use a rotary or demolition hammer

Attachments & kits

Chisel bits
For breaking and splitting concrete, asphalt and rock
Ask the counter about availability and inclusion
Point and drill bits
For starting cracks and drilling rock
Ask the counter about availability and inclusion

Troubleshooting

Find a symptom

Bit is stuck in the concrete

Checks to try, in order

Don't pry with the hammer — it bends the bit and damages the tool.
Break the material around the stuck bit with a second bit.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Link to this fixDid this solve the problem?

Bit falls out or won't stay in

Checks to try, in order

Close the retainer latch fully over the bit collar.

A worn retainer or bushing is a workshop repair.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Hitting weakly

Checks to try, in order

Check the compressor delivers enough air (CFM) for this size of hammer.
Use a ¾″ air hose and keep it as short as practical.
Add air-tool oil to the inlet.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Link to this fixDid this solve the problem?

Weak, slow or won't cycleShared · Air powered

Likely causes

Pressure too low
Leaking coupler
Undersized hose
Water in the line
Dry tool

Checks to try, in order

Set the compressor's regulator to the pressure printed on the tool.
Check couplers are fully seated and listen for leaks along the hose.
Use the right hose size — long, narrow hoses starve heavy tools like breakers.
Drain water from the compressor tank.
Unless the tool is marked oil-free, add a few drops of air-tool oil into the inlet at the start of the day.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Link to this fixDid this solve the problem?

Air leaking at a fittingShared · Air powered

Checks to try, in order

Disconnect the air supply before touching the fitting.
Re-seat the quick coupler until it clicks.
Threaded fittings may need new thread-seal tape.

Air leaking from the tool body usually means worn seals — return it to the workshop.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Link to this fixDid this solve the problem?

Safety

Breaking concrete makes silica dust — use water suppression and wear a respirator.
Wear hearing protection, safety glasses, steel-toe boots and anti-vibration gloves, and take regular breaks.
Locate buried services before breaking ground.