15 · Power Tools

Demolition Jackhammer

Also called Demolition hammer · Demo hammer · Chipping hammer

A heavy-duty hammer for demolishing concrete, brick and stone on larger jobs.

Electric (corded)

Overview

A demolition hammer is the heavier breaker, built for sustained work on larger jobs: walls, foundations and structural concrete rather than a slab or a patch.

Breaking walls and foundations, chipping concrete off walls and columns, removing tile and mortar beds, and brick and block demolition.

Use a point bit to start the cracks and a flat chisel to split and lift the material away. Starting with the chisel usually just polishes the surface.

Work in from a free edge rather than attacking the middle of an unbroken slab, and let the hammer's own weight drive it.

Catalogue specifications

  • THESE HAMMERS USE THE HEX BITS

Best uses

  • Breaking walls and foundations
  • Chipping concrete off walls and columns
  • Removing tile and mortar beds
  • Brick and block demolition

Troubleshooting

Runs but won't hammer

Checks to try, in order

  1. Press it firmly into the work.
  2. Check the bit is fully locked in the retainer.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Tool gets very hot

Checks to try, in order

  1. Clear dust from the motor vents.
  2. Rest the tool — continuous heavy use overheats it.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Tool won't switch onShared · Electric (corded)

Likely causes

  • Tripped GFCI or breaker
  • Lock-off button
  • Damaged cord
  • Dead outlet

Checks to try, in order

  1. Check the outlet works and reset any GFCI / RCD that has tripped.
  2. Release the lock-off button or safety switch before squeezing the trigger.
  3. Inspect the cord and extension lead for cuts, crushed sections or damaged plugs.
  4. If running from a generator, make sure it's running and its breaker hasn't tripped.

A damaged cord or plug means the tool is out of service. Tag it and return it — never tape a cord.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Keeps tripping the breakerShared · Electric (corded)

Likely causes

  • Circuit overloaded
  • Undersized extension cord
  • Blunt accessory

Checks to try, in order

  1. Plug into a circuit with nothing else heavy running on it.
  2. Use a shorter, heavier extension cord. Long, thin cords starve the motor and trip breakers.
  3. Don't force the tool — a dull bit, blade or disc makes the motor draw more current.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Overheating, burning smell or heavy sparkingShared · Electric (corded)

Checks to try, in order

  1. Stop and unplug the tool.
  2. Check the motor vents aren't blocked with dust.
  3. Let it cool, fit a sharp accessory and let the tool's weight do the work.

Heavy sparking from the vents or a burning smell that returns points to worn brushes or a failing motor — workshop only.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Safety

  • Wear a respirator for silica dust, plus eye and hearing protection.
  • Watch for rebar, pipes and cables inside walls and slabs.

For electric (corded)

  • Inspect the cord and plug before every use. Use a GFCI/RCD outdoors or near water.
  • Unplug before changing blades, bits, discs or pads.
  • Wear eye protection, and a dust mask when cutting, grinding or sanding masonry.

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