15 · Power Tools

Drywall Driver

Also called Screw gun · Drywall screwdriver · Collated screw gun

A screw gun with a depth stop that sets drywall screws to exactly the right depth, every time, at speed.

Electric (corded)

Overview

A drywall driver drives screws until a nose cone reaches the board, then disengages the clutch. The screw ends up set just below the paper surface without tearing it.

That consistency is the point: a screw left proud shows through the finish, and one driven too deep has no holding power.

It runs much faster than a normal drill-driver over a wall full of screws, and will not round the screw heads.

Set the depth on an offcut before starting the room.

Best uses

  • Hanging drywall and plasterboard
  • Ceiling board
  • Any job with hundreds of screws at one depth

Not suited for

  • General screwdriving in wood or metal, where a drill-driver is more flexible

Troubleshooting

Screws go straight through the paper

Checks to try, in order

  1. Back the depth stop out a little and test on an offcut.
  2. Hold the gun square to the board.
  3. Check the bit is not worn — a rounded bit slips and tears.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Screws sit proud of the surface

Checks to try, in order

  1. Wind the depth stop in a little.
  2. Check you are hitting the stud squarely — a screw that misses the stud will never set.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Tool won't switch onShared · Electric (corded)

Likely causes

  • Tripped GFCI or breaker
  • Lock-off button
  • Damaged cord
  • Dead outlet

Checks to try, in order

  1. Check the outlet works and reset any GFCI / RCD that has tripped.
  2. Release the lock-off button or safety switch before squeezing the trigger.
  3. Inspect the cord and extension lead for cuts, crushed sections or damaged plugs.
  4. If running from a generator, make sure it's running and its breaker hasn't tripped.

A damaged cord or plug means the tool is out of service. Tag it and return it — never tape a cord.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Keeps tripping the breakerShared · Electric (corded)

Likely causes

  • Circuit overloaded
  • Undersized extension cord
  • Blunt accessory

Checks to try, in order

  1. Plug into a circuit with nothing else heavy running on it.
  2. Use a shorter, heavier extension cord. Long, thin cords starve the motor and trip breakers.
  3. Don't force the tool — a dull bit, blade or disc makes the motor draw more current.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Overheating, burning smell or heavy sparkingShared · Electric (corded)

Checks to try, in order

  1. Stop and unplug the tool.
  2. Check the motor vents aren't blocked with dust.
  3. Let it cool, fit a sharp accessory and let the tool's weight do the work.

Heavy sparking from the vents or a burning smell that returns points to worn brushes or a failing motor — workshop only.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Safety

  • Check for cables and pipes behind the board before screwing off a wall.
  • Eye protection — screws snap and bits shatter.

For electric (corded)

  • Inspect the cord and plug before every use. Use a GFCI/RCD outdoors or near water.
  • Unplug before changing blades, bits, discs or pads.
  • Wear eye protection, and a dust mask when cutting, grinding or sanding masonry.

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