15 · Power Tools

Drill

Also called Hammer drill · Angle drill · Corded drill · SDS drill

Corded drills from a half-inch heavy-duty up to an SDS rotary hammer, for wood, metal and masonry.

Electric (corded)

Overview

We rent corded drills in several forms, and which one a customer needs comes down to the material and the space.

A half-inch heavy-duty drill is for wood and metal, and for mixing with a paddle. An angle drill does the same work where there is no room for a normal body — between joists, inside cabinets.

Hammer drills add a rapid tapping action for masonry. The 3/4-inch two-speed hammer drill suits block and brick; the 1-inch SDS rotary drill is the one for concrete, where it is far faster and easier on the wrist.

For holes over about 1.5 inches in concrete, or for coring through a slab, use the core drill instead.

Catalogue specifications

  • DOES NOT INCLUDE ANY BITS. BITS ARE AVAILABLE TO RENT IN A 5 PACK KIT

Best uses

  • Drilling wood, metal and masonry
  • Fixing into block and concrete
  • Mixing with a paddle attachment
  • Tight spaces, with the angle drill

Not suited for

  • Large-diameter holes in concrete — use the core drill
  • Breaking out concrete — use a breaker

Troubleshooting

Makes no progress in concrete

Checks to try, in order

  1. Switch to the SDS rotary hammer — it is a different tool for this job.
  2. Check the bit is a masonry bit and not worn round at the tip.
  3. Make sure hammer action is switched on, not drill-only.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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The drill grabs and twists out of your hands

Checks to try, in order

  1. Fit and use the side handle.
  2. Ease off as the bit breaks through the back of the material.
  3. In metal, use a slower speed and cutting fluid.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Tool won't switch onShared · Electric (corded)

Likely causes

  • Tripped GFCI or breaker
  • Lock-off button
  • Damaged cord
  • Dead outlet

Checks to try, in order

  1. Check the outlet works and reset any GFCI / RCD that has tripped.
  2. Release the lock-off button or safety switch before squeezing the trigger.
  3. Inspect the cord and extension lead for cuts, crushed sections or damaged plugs.
  4. If running from a generator, make sure it's running and its breaker hasn't tripped.

A damaged cord or plug means the tool is out of service. Tag it and return it — never tape a cord.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Keeps tripping the breakerShared · Electric (corded)

Likely causes

  • Circuit overloaded
  • Undersized extension cord
  • Blunt accessory

Checks to try, in order

  1. Plug into a circuit with nothing else heavy running on it.
  2. Use a shorter, heavier extension cord. Long, thin cords starve the motor and trip breakers.
  3. Don't force the tool — a dull bit, blade or disc makes the motor draw more current.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Overheating, burning smell or heavy sparkingShared · Electric (corded)

Checks to try, in order

  1. Stop and unplug the tool.
  2. Check the motor vents aren't blocked with dust.
  3. Let it cool, fit a sharp accessory and let the tool's weight do the work.

Heavy sparking from the vents or a burning smell that returns points to worn brushes or a failing motor — workshop only.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Safety

  • Use the side handle on anything bigger than a small drill — a grab can break a wrist.
  • Silica dust from concrete is a health hazard. Use extraction or a mask.
  • Check for cables and pipes before drilling into any wall.

For electric (corded)

  • Inspect the cord and plug before every use. Use a GFCI/RCD outdoors or near water.
  • Unplug before changing blades, bits, discs or pads.
  • Wear eye protection, and a dust mask when cutting, grinding or sanding masonry.

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