15 · Power Tools

Jigsaw

Also called Jig saw · Sabre saw · Scroll saw

A narrow reciprocating blade for cutting curves, circles and cut-outs in wood, board and thin metal.

Electric (corded)

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Variable speedBlade sets for wood, metal and laminate

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Jigsaw · Variable speed

Blade sets for wood, metal and laminate

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Overview

A jigsaw cuts with a thin blade moving up and down, which lets it turn corners and cut shapes no circular saw can follow.

It is the tool for sink and socket cut-outs, curves in worktops and board, and any internal cut started from a drilled hole.

Blade choice does most of the work: coarse teeth for fast cuts in timber, fine teeth for clean edges and laminate, and a metal blade for sheet.

Cuts are rarely perfectly square through thick material, so for straight structural cuts use a circular saw.

Best uses

  • Curves and shaped cuts
  • Sink, socket and pipe cut-outs
  • Cutting plywood, MDF and laminate
  • Thin sheet metal with the right blade

Not suited for

  • Long straight cuts in thick timber, where a circular saw is faster and squarer
  • Demolition cutting — use the reciprocating saw

Troubleshooting

The cut wanders or bevels off square

Checks to try, in order

  1. Slow down and stop pushing — the blade is flexing.
  2. Use a thicker or wider blade for straighter cuts.
  3. Check the base plate is locked at 0 degrees.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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The surface chips and tears

Checks to try, in order

  1. Turn the material good-face-down, or use a down-cutting blade.
  2. Use a finer-toothed blade and run slower on laminate.
  3. Stick masking tape along the cut line.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Tool won't switch onShared · Electric (corded)

Likely causes

  • Tripped GFCI or breaker
  • Lock-off button
  • Damaged cord
  • Dead outlet

Checks to try, in order

  1. Check the outlet works and reset any GFCI / RCD that has tripped.
  2. Release the lock-off button or safety switch before squeezing the trigger.
  3. Inspect the cord and extension lead for cuts, crushed sections or damaged plugs.
  4. If running from a generator, make sure it's running and its breaker hasn't tripped.

A damaged cord or plug means the tool is out of service. Tag it and return it — never tape a cord.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Keeps tripping the breakerShared · Electric (corded)

Likely causes

  • Circuit overloaded
  • Undersized extension cord
  • Blunt accessory

Checks to try, in order

  1. Plug into a circuit with nothing else heavy running on it.
  2. Use a shorter, heavier extension cord. Long, thin cords starve the motor and trip breakers.
  3. Don't force the tool — a dull bit, blade or disc makes the motor draw more current.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Overheating, burning smell or heavy sparkingShared · Electric (corded)

Checks to try, in order

  1. Stop and unplug the tool.
  2. Check the motor vents aren't blocked with dust.
  3. Let it cool, fit a sharp accessory and let the tool's weight do the work.

Heavy sparking from the vents or a burning smell that returns points to worn brushes or a failing motor — workshop only.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Safety

  • Eye protection — jigsaw blades snap.
  • Keep the lead clear of the cut line.
  • Unplug before changing blades; they get hot.

For electric (corded)

  • Inspect the cord and plug before every use. Use a GFCI/RCD outdoors or near water.
  • Unplug before changing blades, bits, discs or pads.
  • Wear eye protection, and a dust mask when cutting, grinding or sanding masonry.

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