18 · Saws

Miter Saw

Also called Mitre saw · Chop saw · Compound miter saw · Sliding miter saw

A swing-arm circular saw for fast, precise crosscuts and angled cuts in trim, framing and molding.

Electric (corded)

Sizes & models we rent

12" sliding12" sliding with standStand included for site work
View in the rental catalogue ↗Compare →

Overview

A miter saw pulls a circular blade down onto the work on a pivoting arm, with the material held against a fence. That setup is what makes a cut square and repeatable — the angle is set on the saw rather than judged by hand.

We rent two 12 in saws, one of them with a stand for site work.

Baseboard, crown and trim, door and window casing, framing cuts, picture frames, and any run of pieces cut to the same length.

Hold the workpiece firmly against the fence or clamp it; a piece that shifts mid-cut spoils the angle and can snatch. Let the blade stop fully before raising it, or it marks the cut on the way back up.

Best uses

  • Baseboard, crown and trim
  • Door and window casing
  • Framing cuts
  • Picture frames and repeat cuts

Troubleshooting

Cuts aren't square

Checks to try, in order

  1. Check the blade against the fence with a square.
  2. Make sure the miter and bevel locks are tight.

If the detents are out of calibration, the workshop can re-set them.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Link to this fixDid this solve the problem?
Blade binds or burns the wood

Checks to try, in order

  1. Cut more slowly.
  2. Swap a blunt blade.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Link to this fixDid this solve the problem?
Blade guard sticks

Checks to try, in order

  1. Unplug and clean sawdust from the guard pivot.

Never tie back or remove the guard.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Link to this fixDid this solve the problem?
Tool won't switch onShared · Electric (corded)

Likely causes

  • Tripped GFCI or breaker
  • Lock-off button
  • Damaged cord
  • Dead outlet

Checks to try, in order

  1. Check the outlet works and reset any GFCI / RCD that has tripped.
  2. Release the lock-off button or safety switch before squeezing the trigger.
  3. Inspect the cord and extension lead for cuts, crushed sections or damaged plugs.
  4. If running from a generator, make sure it's running and its breaker hasn't tripped.

A damaged cord or plug means the tool is out of service. Tag it and return it — never tape a cord.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Link to this fixDid this solve the problem?
Keeps tripping the breakerShared · Electric (corded)

Likely causes

  • Circuit overloaded
  • Undersized extension cord
  • Blunt accessory

Checks to try, in order

  1. Plug into a circuit with nothing else heavy running on it.
  2. Use a shorter, heavier extension cord. Long, thin cords starve the motor and trip breakers.
  3. Don't force the tool — a dull bit, blade or disc makes the motor draw more current.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Link to this fixDid this solve the problem?
Overheating, burning smell or heavy sparkingShared · Electric (corded)

Checks to try, in order

  1. Stop and unplug the tool.
  2. Check the motor vents aren't blocked with dust.
  3. Let it cool, fit a sharp accessory and let the tool's weight do the work.

Heavy sparking from the vents or a burning smell that returns points to worn brushes or a failing motor — workshop only.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

Link to this fixDid this solve the problem?

Safety

  • Keep hands at least 6 in from the blade.
  • Never cross your arms over the blade path.

For electric (corded)

  • Inspect the cord and plug before every use. Use a GFCI/RCD outdoors or near water.
  • Unplug before changing blades, bits, discs or pads.
  • Wear eye protection, and a dust mask when cutting, grinding or sanding masonry.

Videos & links

Related equipment

All Saws →

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