18 · Saws

Table Saw

Also called Bench saw · Site saw · Rip saw

A bench-mounted circular blade with a fence, for ripping sheet and timber to accurate, repeatable widths.

Electric (corded)

Sizes & models we rent

8-1/4" site sawLighter, easier to move 10" site sawDeeper cut, more capacity

Overview

A table saw holds the blade still and moves the material past it against a fence. That is what makes it accurate: every cut at a given fence setting comes out the same width.

It is the machine for ripping sheet goods and timber to width, and for repeat cuts where a hand-held saw would wander.

Ours are site saws — 8-1/4 inch and 10 inch — light enough to move around but stable enough to work off.

Support long material in and out of the cut. Most table saw accidents start with a workpiece that was not supported.

Best uses

Ripping sheet goods and timber to width
Repeat cuts at the same dimension
Site joinery and formwork

Not suited for

Cross-cutting long boards, where a miter saw is safer
Curved cuts — that is the jigsaw
Cutting anything freehand without the fence or a guide

Troubleshooting

Find a symptom

The workpiece kicks back

Checks to try, in order

Stop. Check the riving knife is fitted — this is what it prevents.
Check the fence is parallel to the blade. A fence that toes in traps the offcut.
Keep the piece hard against the fence through the whole cut.
Never stand directly behind the blade.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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The cut burns or the blade bogs down

Checks to try, in order

Feed more steadily — hesitating in the cut burns the timber.
Check the blade for pitch build-up and dull teeth.
Raise the blade so it is cutting with more of the tooth.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Tool won't switch onShared · Electric (corded)

Likely causes

Tripped GFCI or breaker
Lock-off button
Damaged cord
Dead outlet

Checks to try, in order

Check the outlet works and reset any GFCI / RCD that has tripped.
Release the lock-off button or safety switch before squeezing the trigger.
Inspect the cord and extension lead for cuts, crushed sections or damaged plugs.
If running from a generator, make sure it's running and its breaker hasn't tripped.

A damaged cord or plug means the tool is out of service. Tag it and return it — never tape a cord.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Keeps tripping the breakerShared · Electric (corded)

Likely causes

Circuit overloaded
Undersized extension cord
Blunt accessory

Checks to try, in order

Plug into a circuit with nothing else heavy running on it.
Use a shorter, heavier extension cord. Long, thin cords starve the motor and trip breakers.
Don't force the tool — a dull bit, blade or disc makes the motor draw more current.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Overheating, burning smell or heavy sparkingShared · Electric (corded)

Checks to try, in order

Stop and unplug the tool.
Check the motor vents aren't blocked with dust.
Let it cool, fit a sharp accessory and let the tool's weight do the work.

Heavy sparking from the vents or a burning smell that returns points to worn brushes or a failing motor — workshop only.

Reference draft — always follow the manufacturer’s manual.

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Safety

Riving knife and guard fitted. This machine causes more serious injuries than any other on site when they are removed.
Push stick for every rip, and never reach over a turning blade.
Unplug before changing blades or clearing the throat plate.
Eye and ear protection.

For electric (corded)

Inspect the cord and plug before every use. Use a GFCI/RCD outdoors or near water.
Unplug before changing blades, bits, discs or pads.
Wear eye protection, and a dust mask when cutting, grinding or sanding masonry.